Object of Lust

Facts you need to know about Chanel’s premiere Camelia Skeleton special edition timepiece, which was unveiled during the 2017 Basel watch fair.

Thirty years after Chanel made its debuts into the watchmaking world with the launch of the Première watch, the iconic Haute-Couture Maison delivers it’s second in-house movement, making a remarkable come back into the Haute-Horlogerie game. 

The Maison’s icons inspire and become time keepers: If the Première watch recalls the shape of N°5 perfume cap, it is the Camélia, Coco Chanel’s favourite flower that inspired the new caliber 2. Specifically designed for the Première Camélia Skeleton Watch, Caliber 2 is the first in-house movement to be running a women’s watch.

When the watch was originally introduced in 2017, we asked watch contributor Francois-Xavier Overstake to bring us through this French poetic high-horlogerie journey.

What do we need to know about the history of Chanel watchmaking and this remarkable timepiece?

Chanel’s watchmaking ambition is an established fact. Following the presentation of its first manufacture movement for the Monsieur model, with jumping hours and retrograde minutes, Chanel revealed during the 2017 edition of the Baselworld watch fair, its second movement.This time, the piece was specifically developed for ladies: the Première Camélia Skeleton. Obviously it was no coincidence that Chanel chose the Première watch to put forward its new movement. Indeed, as the name suggests, the Première watch is the symbol of Chanel’s first incursion in the world of watchmaking in 1987. For this reason, I consider the Première Camélia Skeleton as a logical completion of a trajectory initiated 30 years ago. The sheer quality and the level of watchmaking expertise displayed by the Première Camélia Skeleton, underline both the immense progress made by Chanel and its desire to position itself as a respected actor in the segment of high-level horology. 

Can you describe the Première Camelia Skeleton’s movement ?

It is important to note that the calibre 2 is the result of a specific development, distinct from that operated for calibre 1 (despite the fact that they do share a couple of components). The movement was, therefore, precisely created to bring the Première Camélia Skeleton to life. Chanel, however, deliberately maintained some of the calibre 1 aesthetic details in order to reinforce the brand and, even more, the manufacturer’s identity (the signature is the lion, Coco Chanel’s favourite animal). One of these common traits can be found in the circular architecture of the movement. Personally, I particularly like the contrast between the shape of the movement bridges, amplified by the floating style of the skeleton, and the geometrical and rigorous aspect of the Première case. Indeed, the latter was inspired by the bottle stop of the maison’s famous Chanel No. 5 perfume, as well as by the octagonal shape of the Place Vendôme.

What about the movement’s design aesthetic?

In the context of the Première Camélia Skeleton, the calibre 2 is much more than just a movement. It is also seen as the aesthetic cornerstone of the timepiece. In the absence of any dial, the movement is unmistakably centre stage. It is very impressive how this watch, at first sight, reveals its aerial dimension, both light and subtle, as if made of lace. Such delicateness can be felt in the finesse of its bridges and in the perfect execution of the skeleton work. One can feel that the movement was designed as such. Indeed, the barrel and its mainspring are perfectly integrated and remain extremely discrete (visually speaking, this is generally one of the weak points of skeleton watches). The regulating organ, positioned just beneath the hands’ axis, provides an attractive animation for the reverse side of the watch thanks to the oscillations of the balance wheel and the spiral’s behaviour. Furthermore, all the other mobile elements are harmoniously inserted in the actual structure of the calibre 2. The touch of the Romain Gauthier Manufacture can be observed in the precise and meticulous finishing of the movement. The shape given to each bridge was clearly not decided at random. Their respective curves draw the pattern that gave the name to the watch: the Camélia. The maison’s emblematic flower is depicted with elegance and volume through the different levels, which further accentuate the impression of depth. 

1 design, two declinations?

The aesthetic outcome of the movement is so convincing that Chanel has even allowed itself to propose a version with diamond-set bridges that successfully manages to maintain the finesse of the calibre 2 architecture, despite their inclusion. The curl of diamonds thus created demonstrates a great mastery in the art of diamond setting, putting forward, yet again, the exclusive conception of the movement. The second, a model featuring a black ADLC finishing remains my preferred timepiece since it confers a highly contemporary touch to the whole piece. 

The Première Camélia Skeleton is available in two different limited edition movement finishings (diamond-set or with a black ADLC treatment) as well as in a fully set version limited to only 12 pieces.

What of the Première Camelia Skeleton’s technical performance?

The technical performances of calibre 2 are impressive. The movement is comfortably wound and features a highly respectable power reserve of 48 hours, despite its discrete barrel and a high frequency of 4hz. A daily winding remains therefore necessary for an optimal functioning…but this should definitely not be perceived as a constraint. On the contrary, this exercise will enable us, each time, to marvel at and dive into the intricacies of the movement whilst delicately manipulating the crown.

Finally, can you tell us about its trompe l’oeil effect?

As for all rectangular faced watches, the Première Camélia Skeleton appears larger than its dimensions might suggest. Measuring 28,5 x 37mm, its white gold and diamond-set rectangular case radiates a strong presence on a ladies’ wrist, which might initially slightly take you aback. In reality, however, this perfectly dosed, out blend of character and finesse is what will achieve to seduce the most demanding amateurs of high horology timepieces. The Première Camélia Skeleton is delightfully paradoxical: curved shapes mingle with straight lines, and its style reveals both a formal and versatile character. The beauty of the movement and the quality of its finishing are undoubtedly the main highlights of this watch, which brilliantly celebrates the 30th anniversary of Chanel’s watchmaking history.

Numbered edition.

18K white gold case (28.5 x 37mm) set with 47 baguette-cut diamonds.
Camellia skeleton set with 246 brilliant-cut diamonds.
18K white gold bezel set with 42 baguette-cut diamonds and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds.
18K white gold crown set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds and 11 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Black satin strap with 18K white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Total diamond weight: 7.82 carats.