Heritage

Do you often not wonder what it is about a certain piece of jewellery that makes it a collectible? Is it its story, rich in heritage or is it the public figures that wear them? Whatever the case may be for you, French jewellery Maison, Van Cleef & Arpels and creators of the sought after Alhambra offer both in large quantity. Since its creation in 1968, the distinctive and instantly recognisable four-leaf clover, which has been worn by the likes of Grace Kelly, Françoise Hardy and Romy Schneider, has undergone frequent updates but has always stayed true to its core value of good luck and good fortune.

The Alhambra collection, which is the veritable signature of Van Cleef and Arpels, first came to light in the 50s and stems from the brand’s desire, at the time, to create more accessible fine jewellery for the new generation of woman. Inspired by luck, the Maison's perennial guide, the four leaf-clover appears in the jeweller’s archives since the 20s. Interestingly enough, Jacques Arpels, nephew of the founding couple Elsa and Alfred Arpels, was an avid collector of lucky talismans, which he found on his travels and would frequently pick four-leaf clovers in the back garden of his house in Germigny-l’Évêque, and gift them to employees as good luck charms along with the English poem, “Don’t Quit.”

In 1968, he created a four-leaf clover shaped medallion, inspired by the Moorish quatrefoil, the lucky four-leaf clover and decorative patterns from the Doge’s Palace in Venice. Shortly after, the very first Alhambra® necklace was born, featuring 20 clover-shaped motifs placed at equal intervals in creased yellow gold with gold bead details. A tactile piece of jewellery, which invited women to not only wear it but also touch the piece. It is said that the name Alhambra was inspired by the sweeping archways from the Spanish Alhambra Palace in Granada.

In the late 60s designers such as Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent were launching casual wear in their RTW collections creating a democratic approach to fashion by moving away from couture. Jacques Arpels saw potential in that niche and felt that his new design would offer a sense of effortlessness and versatility that women were seeking then. One year after its launch, Cartier launched its famous Love Bracelet.

As soon as the Alhambra necklace hit ‘La Boutique’ located at 22 place Vendôme, the symbolic design, which conveyed a modern attitude, achieved immediate success.

royals & celebrities

Over the years countless film stars, singers and royals have exemplified the Alhambra necklace. Early designs were loved by celebrities Romy Schneider and Françoise Hardy, and amongst the early endorsers, a royal collector: Her Serene Highness, the Princess Grace of Monaco. She was an avid collector and could often be seen stacking her various Alhambra necklaces in tortoise shell, malachite and coral. She’d often personalise her stack with an Alhambra pendant to give it a distinctive look. A royal staple that has made its way down through generations with Princess Caroline of Hanover who followed in her mother’s footsteps. The Grimaldis are however not the only Royal family to have taken a liking to the lucky charm, as the Windsor’s and the new Princess of Wales, Catherine, in particular have been seen wearing pieces from the Alhambra collection.

The Alhambra progression 

The original Alhambra has, since its creation in 1968, given rise to a myriad of re-interpretations. Its pure lines and distinctive beaded silhouette, over the decades, have been re-imagined with the finest materials, colours and symbols. Carnelian, agate, onyx, tiger’s eye, turquoise, mother of pearl are just a few of the materials which have been used to update the different Alhambra collections which are:

• Vintage Alhambra

  Faithful to the first Alhambra long necklace created in 1968, Vintage Alhambra pieces stand out for their eminently recognisable style. Identical in size, each motif is edged in golden beads and set with natural and refined materials.

• Magic Alhambra

  Boldly asymmetrical, Magic Alhambra creations feature a harmonious combination of shapes and materials. From carnelian and tiger’s eye, white and grey mother-of-pearl, white gold and diamonds, the motifs are interpreted in a playful variety of sizes.

• Sweet Alhambra

  Capturing a spirit of grace and lightness, Sweet Alhambra expresses the tender lucky-charm motifs as miniatures. Alhambra motifs, hearts and butterflies delicately animate bracelets, pendants, earrings and watches.

• Lucky Alhambra

  A special source of inspiration for the Maison, nature has influenced the creation of new symbols of luck and love. Alone or combined with the Alhambra motif, hearts, butterflies, leaves and stars adorn Lucky Alhambra creations in a variety of materials and colours.

• Pure Alhambra

  This interpretation of the Alhambra symbol mixes simple and harmonious lines with the gentle sheen of smooth gold. Polished and slightly billowed, the motifs are adorned mother-of-pearl, onyx or diamonds for a pure aesthetic.
  

• Byzantine Alhambra

  Infused with understated elegance, the Byzantine Alhambra collection celebrates the iconic motif in its most graphic expression. Made exclusively in yellow gold, this line features a pendant and bracelet that bring together solid and openwork structures.

Interestingly, Anthony Barzilay Freund, Editorial Director of 1stDibs reveals that the Asian market has the biggest demand for new Alhambra pieces, as their aesthetic is fresh, modern and trendy, whilst the European market has the biggest market for vintage Alhambra items.

Alhambra as an investment 

Van Cleef and Arpels’ Alhambra collection is one of the most sought after on the resale market as the pieces generally retain their investment value very well. In fact, searches for Alhambra have increased 18% YoY (Last 12 months vs prior) according to Anthony Barzilay Freund, who adds that Vintage Alhambra pendants, necklaces and earrings have been especially popular with 1stDibs clients.

Some models and particularly limited editions or discontinued styles can sell for more than their retail value. Particularly limited-edition Alhambra’s as they are rare and coveted, and thus will sell for higher prices confirms Barzilay Freund.

Like this Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Magic Alhambra Necklace – was listed for $149,000 in 2018. It is to date, the most expensive Alhambra piece ever to have sold on 1stDibs.

Ultimately you want to try and get your hands on the pieces which are no longer in production, but beware of fakes. The style’s popularity has led to a vast number of copies and the fake market continues to grow, however it has not diminished the demand for authentic pieces confirms Anthony. “In fact, it has driven consumers to become more informed and savvy when shopping on the secondary market.” he adds.