Collector’s Agenda

With enormous fiery diamonds, oversized jewellery boxes and the 'blue' - that we can never associate with anything but... Tiffany's, the American powerhouse opened an inimitable exhibition in London on June 10th, which runs until August 19th. 

The splendid Saatchi Gallery just off Sloane Square has been transformed into Tiffany heaven with Vision & Virtuosity, where visitors are transported through 185 years of glitz and glamour, from the brand's founding in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany. 

The brain behind the brand had a work ethic and entrepreneurial nuance that by the end of the nineteenth century, had the new monied of America's Gilded Age wrapped around his finger as securely as any of his 'modern engagement rings'. 

By this I mean, the 1886 innovative design consisted of a six-prong setting where the diamond seems to float above the finger allowing the diamond's sparkle to scintillate more than ever before, is given a room to itself - where you can even try on a Tiffany engagement ring - be careful who you take with you! 

A year after this invention, Tiffany he snapped up a third of the French Crown Jewels in the famous 1887 sale at the Louvre, he took them back to Manhattan where the queen of high society, Mrs Caroline Astor, bought Empress Eugenie's diamond bow brooch. Although this particular piece is back in the Louvre, the exhibition showcases another of the Empress's diamond encrusted brooches: an enormous display of diamonds set as a spray of currant leaves. 

Another display of florals, is seen in the magnificent Montana Sapphire Renaissance Revival style necklace created in 1922 by Louis Comfort Tiffany; with innumerable diamonds set as rosettes and ribbons - giving a fine example of Gilded Age opulence.

Jean Schlumberger, the house's indomitable jewellery designer created many of Tiffany's most iconic jewels including the legendary 'Bird on a Rock Brooch' which to this day, comes in a wide variety of versions of the originals. This particular sparkling bird, with pink sapphire eyes and a gold plume, sits on a cushion-cut 54carat blue paraiba-type tourmaline. Schlumberger's spectacular Hedges and Flowers necklace set with diamonds, turquoise and rubellites is also on display.

We discover the history of the Tiffany Blue - that famous patented pantone whose number derives from the year of the brand's creation - 1837. And the subsequent Blue Book the first catalogue of its kind from a luxury emporium, which now lends its name to the annual High jewellery collections.  and several from the company's archives are on display, including and a dragonfly brooch inspired by a 1904 masterpiece by the founder's son, Lewis Comfort. 

Any Tiffany exhibition would be incomplete without the inclusion of that magical movie, Breakfast at Tiffany's. Both Audrey Hepburn's annotated script and her iconic Givenchy black satin dress, that she wears in the movie with a choker of pearls featuring a gobstoppingly gargantum pavé diamond paste centrepiece, and tiara - are on view. 

This iconic look of Holly Golightly was reinterpreted in the publicity of the film, with Miss Hepburn swapping the choker for an enormous Schlumberger ribbon-style necklace in the middle of which is set the indomitable Tiffany Yellow Diamond. 

Discovered in 1877 by Mr Tiffany and worn only four times, three of which were by Audrey, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé - as much stars at the stone itself. And guess what - this stone of sunshine, suspended from an important diamond necklace is also there, to blind us with its beauty - you can even try it on - virtually of course!

This awe-inspiring masterpiece has an app, downloadable for free, through which you can obtain tickets - also free; and enjoy an interesting audio tour. An accompanying book by Vivienne Becker, with a foreward by the late Vogue Andre Leon Talley, is available to buy.

Vision and Virtuosity at the Saatchi Gallery until August 19th 2022.