Object of Lust

Launched in spring 2021 at Geneva’s watch show, together with a very speculative green edition of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris” is nevertheless a watch that deserves a true appreciation. Spotlight on the future collector’s item.

Patek Philippe
Calatrava
6119

There are several ways one can start a watch collection: by choosing a particular theme, a complication, a time period, a brand or even a single model. The possibilities are endless and this is why collections are above all a reflection of their owners’ personalities and sensibilities.

For those who are deeply interested in the technical dimension and the horological sophistication, the choice to build a collection around famous movements is a sound approach.

The caliber at the heart of the Calatrava 6119

The history of watchmaking is punctuated by calibers that marked their respective eras and the pleasure one gets from acquiring them is unmatched. A collection composed of watches fitted with benchmark calibers can help you to grasp the technical as well as decorative evolutions and to outline the key trends of watchmaking, such as the increase in the oscillating frequency or the optimization of energy consumption.

The movement according to Patek Philippe

The key question is which recent movement might end up becoming one of these benchmark calibers. One thing is for sure, Patek Philippe’s 30-255 PS caliber is a movement of great importance for the company. This movement is fitted in the latest Calatrava 6119 which was just unveiled during the digital edition of Watches & Wonders 2021. It plays a strategic role because it is part of the basic movements meant to power the simple watches of the catalog first and, if necessary, to receive additional complications. Its release was highly anticipated as Patek Phillipe needed to renew its simple hand-wound caliber. The 215 caliber is obviously an excellent movement, finished with great care and pleasant to wind, but its 21.9mm diameter makes it hardly compatible with watches with sizes that match our current preferences. Even though dress watches retain reasonable proportions, nowadays it is a difficult proposition to offer cases with diameters under 38mm. Furthermore, the use of a movement that is too small creates constraints. The first is the location of the small seconds hand which can visually unbalance the dial. The second is the difficulty of making it visible on the case back as it would look too small.

The 30-255 PS caliber or the excellence of the movement

The 30-255 PS caliber is undoubtedly a modern caliber, it is adapted to the current requirements not only because of its dimensions but also because of its technical specificities. Patek Philippe has implemented several solutions to optimize energy consumption and achieve consistent behavior, including at the end of the power reserve. The 30-255 PS caliber uses two mainspring barrels connected in parallel whose primary purpose is to increase the torque and improve the moment of inertia for the balance wheel. In addition, the architecture of the movement was designed to maintain its thickness:  the crown and the ratchet wheels sit under the barrel bridge (in fact, they are not visible from the back of the watch despite its clear case back) whereas the central pinion meshes with the center wheel, without a pinwheel plate. It should be noted that the movement is equipped with a stop-seconds function that stops the second hand when the crown is pulled to allow a more accurate time setting.

Calatrava 6119 and inspired estheticism

The presentation of the movement also follows the same standards of excellence. The cut-outs of the 6 bridges create a classic styling that highlights the moving elements. The finish, both from a technical and decorative standpoint, is excellent, as demonstrated by the perfect continuity of the Côtes de Genève and the attention given to the beveling. 

A unique dial

This timepiece required an exceptional dial worthy of this movement, and the new Calatrava 6119, available in two versions (6119R-001 in rose gold with a silver-grained dial and 6119G-001 in white gold with a grey-black dial) did not disappoint. The reference number of this Calatrava is a nod to the watches that inspired it. For example, its hobnail bezel, called "Clous de Paris" is an esthetic feature found on the Calatrava 3919 and 5119. However, the Calatrava 6119 has its own personality. This is due in particular to its size (39mm) and its dial with applied markers.

The diameter of the case remains well proportioned and takes advantage of the size of the 30-255 PS caliber. The location of the small seconds hand is ideal and it creates and overall sense of harmony. The thickness of the bezel makes it possible to control the opening of the dial and despite the size of the case, the Calatrava 6119 retains all the features of an elegant and refined watch.

Excellence in each and every detail

The applied markers contribute to the perceived quality by adding an effect of depth to the case. The gold Dauphine hands offer a hint of originality because of their tri-facetted hands, for a sharper style. A "railroad" minute track is positioned on the outer circumference of the dial while the second hands sub-dial is segmented into quarters. Each version has its own personality. The pink gold version is more dressed, more classic while the white gold version is more versatile and contemporary. Its perceived size is slightly smaller given the darker dial. In any case, the proportions of the case combined with the curved shape of the lugs give this timepiece a slender and sleek profile, making it very pleasant to wear.

The Calatrava 6119: a collector’s item

The Calatrava 6119 is in this context a significant watch from a collector’s standpoint. First, it embodies an esthetic evolution for Patek Philippe, with its enlarged case and more contemporary details. But above all, it introduces a whole new movement that will play an important role in the coming years. A simple hand-wound movement is always a perfect indicator of a brand’s capabilities, much more than a movement with multiple complications. This is a well-known fact in the world of horology: it is very complicated to make a simple movement. Thanks to its performance and presentation, the 30-255 PS caliber demonstrates the savoir-faire of the company. This is why the Calatrava 6119 can be an excellent choice for any amateur collector of basic movements able to merge technical interest and state-of-the-art design.

CalaTrava 6119 Patek Philippe: a reference of pure technology

It has a diameter of 31mm, or an increase of nearly 50% when compared to the diameter of the 215 caliber. It boasts a generous power reserve, with over 65 hours. The frequency is 4hz, a very good tradeoff between precision and stability. The movement is only 2.55mm in height (identical to the 215 caliber), which is an excellent performance given the power available. From a chronometric standpoint, the accuracy of the caliber meets the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal: a range of -3/+2 seconds per day for calibers with a diameter greater than 20mm.