Paris Haute Couture’s high-jewellery highlights according to Jemima Chamberlain-Adams

Feb 27

On the Collector’s Agenda, Paris Haute Couture is certainly not an event to be missed on the contrary, the bi-annual event (held in January and June), brings together collectors with an endless devotion to opulence and a deep appreciation for craftsmanship. Luckily for them, the January edition coincides each year with the release of all the major jewellery brand’s’ new high-jewellery lines. On display, a vast array of one-of-a-kind bejewelled accessories that showcase valuable gemstones and exquisite craftsmanship.

Jemima Chamberlain-Adams

To navigate the vast offering of scintillating necklaces, tiaras, rings and brooches, we turned to jewellery expert and collector Jemima Chamberlain-Adams to pinpoint this season’s Paris Haute Couture week highlights.

Jemima’s love of jewellery as an art came about quite by chance whilst working as a temporary exhibition assistant at the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva, during her ERASMUS year abroad. At that point in time, she had put all her energy into pursuing a career in fashion, having studied at Central Saint Martins, London and interning at ELLE magazine in Paris. However, as soon as she walked into the exhibition room and was met with cabinet after cabinet of spectacular jewels, she knew that’s where she wanted to be.

Currently a specialist in the jewellery department at Sotheby’s, Jemima explains that for her, no day is ever the same. Her work involves valuing and consigning jewellery, travelling the UK and Europe to source pieces for the Sotheby’s sales, researching certain jewels which will be featured in upcoming auctions and finding buyers, from their existing group of collectors and new ones. Her minimalist fashion style transcends to her personal jewellery collection, although she admits has an ever-growing wish list.

Who better to turn to than someone with expert knowledge in the field of jewellery and a thorough insight into collector’s habits?

What would you say are the overriding jewellery trends that have come through during Paris Haute Couture ?

Statement necklaces were very much the trend that stood out to me and were part of every Maison’s collection, from Cartier’s Splendens necklace to the Destiny Necklace by Louis Vuitton and Graff’s showstopping piece from their Tribal Collection featuring a 50-carat diamond.

Cartier Splendens necklace — ***Cartier’s Splendens necklace features a cascade of raspberry-hued oval, pear and bead-shaped spinels.***

***Louis Vuitton’s Destiny Necklace in platinum, yellow gold, rubies and diamonds.***

***Graff’s Tribal necklace featuring the 50-carat D Flawless diamond.***

Were there any unusual pieces that particularly stood out to you?

It would have to be Boucheron’s exquisite four-strand diamond necklace designed as two connecting clips of Art Deco inspiration. The design allows it to be worn in six different ways. This is the type of jewellery I love the most, as the design allows for longevity and versatility. I also loved that the house styled this piece on a male model as a cloak fastener.

***Boucheron’s Frosty White necklace made of diamonds, rock crystal and white gold features six different looks***

***The piece is adorned with the two signature Art Deco designs which may be detached and worn as a single or double brooch.***

The original double clip brooch was bought by the Duke of Kent at the Boucheron boutique in London on July 31, 1937. The creation was then gifted, seven years later, to Princess Elizabeth for her eighteenth birthday.

Which high jewellery collection do you find most impressive this season?

Without a doubt Boucheron and all the Art Deco silhouettes. I loved how the Creative Director, Claire Choisne, paid homage to the late Queen Elizabeth, drawing inspiration from a Boucheron aquamarine and diamond double clip brooch, which the Queen received in 1944.

Which collection featured the best stones & why ?

Cartier’s final chapter of its Beautés du monde collection was a visual feast of colour for the eyes. Specifically, the Obi Necklace which draws inspiration from Japanese fabric. This piece upholds Cartier’s historic reputation for spectacular colour combinations, with the green, red, and black hues working in harmony with each other, with perhaps a nod back to some of the maison’s important Art Deco designs.

In terms of design, which collection do you feel was the most creative ?

There wasn’t one collection specifically that stood out, but rather individual pieces from separate collections, such as Cindy Chao’s cardamom pods, Cartier’s Obi necklace and Repossi’s minimalist jewels from its La Ligne high jewellery collection.

***Repossi’s new high jewellery collection, La Ligne***

What about craftsmanship, was there anything notable?

I adored Cindy Chao’s Black Label jewels, specifically the cardamom pods. Not only are they extremely playful but the use of materials and final finish just screams expert craftsmanship. Chao mixes the lightness of titanium in combination with realistically set gemstones such as the emerald cabochons and rose-cut diamonds taking the place of the seeds; the result is an immortalisation of nature.

What would you say are your three favourite pieces ?

My top three are the Cartier Obi necklace due to my love of Japanese textiles, it was a reminder of one of my favourite exhibitions, Kimono, which took place at the V&A a few years back. Secondly, the Louis Vuitton gold collar necklace, although this is quite the statement piece, I feel it could be quite a fun to style in both a more casual outfit or black tie. Finally if I were to choose something other than my previous highlights above, it would be the Chaumet Liens Inséparables diadem, super simple, understated and that just speaks to me. Since the Sotheby’s tiara exhibition in 2022, I now seem to be adding tiara after tiara to my wish list.

***Chaumet Liens Inséparables head ornament in white gold and diamonds.***

We have noticed that consumers for fashion luxury goods have become younger, is it the same for high jewellery or do you feel it is still reserved to a more mature clientele?

There are definitely younger clients looking to enter the auction market at a more entry level price such as in our London Fine Jewels auctions. However, with top tier jewellery, which is sold in our flag ship sales across Geneva, New York and Hong Kong, the clientele tends to be in the 40-70 age bracket. I would imagine this would translate into the retail world of high jewellery, younger clients are yet to achieve the disposable income needed to purchase high jewellery, however we do see many people in their 20s supporting their favorite houses by purchasing items from the Fine Jewellery lines.

If you could have any piece in your collection which would it be and why ?

Repossi’s La Ligne diamond ring formed as two opposing pear-shaped diamonds. The maison’s minimalist aesthetic really appeals to me and this piece would be something that could be worn daily. I am understated when it comes to style, so I look for jewels that can be worn for a number of different occasions.