In conversation with

The luxury watch industry has been dominated by men for as long as we can remember, but the past three years has seen a demographic shift, with the market now opening to women. 

With evolving perceptions of femininity and the growing wealth of women around the world, not only are women more interested in buying, but they are also establishing themselves as collectors. 

Jessica Owens, or J.J as she is known to her friends, is one of the trendsetters of this movement. The 25-year old New Yorker has been a watch collector for over a decade, which is impressive considering that’s nearly half her lifetime!  

This passion for timepieces was inherited from her father. Everything began when she received a 1969 gold Cartier Tank from him for her 13th birthday. What started off as a way to bond with her dad, developed over time into a full-time career.

By day, J.J works as a marketing specialist at Watchonista, the exclusive magazine for “watch collectors by watch collectors”. In her spare time, Owens pioneers the female watch community through her Instagram page @jessicajjos,where she nows counts more than 12k followers. 

There, you’re bound to find the coolest of timepieces and some highly amusing stories. Check also her highlights for her enthusiastic french fry ratings! Culinary reviews aside, we turned to J.J for some detailed insight into her personal collection and what brands she thinks will lead the path in years to come.

How long have you been collecting watches and how did you get into it?

I started collecting watches when I was around 13 years old. My father was a collector and I started collecting to grow my relationship with him. My real interest was piqued watching Bond movies as the character always had incredible pieces. 

What rush do you get from watches? Is it the movement, design or brand ?

My initial reaction is always design based, it has to resonate with me. Why it resonates varies, but the watch has to speak to me for me to truly love it. Looking at my collection I am very loyal to Rolex and Audemars Piguet, but first and foremost it is design based. Nobody wants to wear a piece they don’t aesthetically love. 

Are your collecting habits influenced by your background (family, things you wanted in your childhood, investment)? 

My father had many influences early on in my collection, but as I learned more I developed my own tastes. My dad instilled in me that watches are meant to be worn, so I have always taken that to heart. I never look at buying a watch for investment’s sake, I am very fortunate in that most my watches have maintained their value or appreciated, I buy what I genuinely love and in doing that the monetary value becomes less important. 

What was your first acquisition? And how did you get to vintage?

My first acquisition was a vintage Cartier Tank from 1969. It was a manual wind and my dad was very adamant about teaching me how to wind it and take care of it, thus understanding how delicate the mechanism is. Having that as my first piece coupled with my father’s love of vintage, guided my collecting in the vintage direction. 

How do you source your collectibles and where?

Prior to the watch market being so aggressive, it was not too difficult to find an incredible vintage piece. There are still incredible finds at competitive prices but that is few and far between. I still really enjoy the hunt, so going to estate sales as well as searching for obscure auctions. Sotheby’s has great smaller and midsize vintage pieces, but I have found many of my favourite pieces traveling throughout France and Switzerland.  

Around which focal point do you organise your collection? Do you have a reference period?

There is not one key attribute in my collection, other than for a long time there was a heavy emphasis on vintage. I do hope my next watch is an independent, completely changing the direction as I have recently been drawn to modern as that is what I am around most. 

Do you observe a rising trend among watch collectors at the moment?

To continue on the last answer: there is such an interest in independents. The watchmakers are living artists and there is such a connection to the piece and brand due to that. We are all seeing masterpieces made in real time. There is a certain freedom that comes with being independent and that shows in the unique designs of De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie, and F.P. Journe. They incite excitement within collectors, not to mention there is a closeness the owner has to the brand that is incomparable.  

Do you wear all your watches?

Yes, as my father taught me, watches are meant to be worn. I do save some for special occasions, but the vast majority of my collection is worn. 

Do you have a particular memory that marked your journey as a collector?

Absolutely. When I was a freshman in college, sitting in a Vector Calc class, I purchased my second Rolex very quietly over the phone as I was so excited it had come in. I believe at that point it was my seventh of eight watch in my collection, my first modern Rolex none the less, and I remember thinking, “this is what collecting is”.

We often talk about the watch grail, what would yours be?

Rolex ref. 6062. ‘Stelline’ dial.

Have you ever sold a watch from your collection, to make room for a new one?

Never!

According to you, which watch brands will be leading the collectors’ market in 20 years?

Look Richard Mille, Journe, Voutilaninen, and Akrivia were not what they were 20 years ago, some had not even started and look at the much-deserved regard they have today. That being said, it is so hard to say what will lead the market. There will always be the Holy Trinity, but I would make a strong bet on independents such as the above as well as H. Moser, MING, and De Bethune. 

Today if you could only keep one watch, which would it be and why?

I was offered upon graduating number one in my class a Patek Philippe Nautilus and though I don’t wear it often, what that watch represents is everything. My parents being proud of me is worth more than my entire collection, but that watch is a direct representation of that. 

According to you, what attitude will the new generation have towards collecting watches?

I think it’s important to distinguish the difference between collectors, dealers, and those who buy a few watches. The latter has the potential to become collectors, I do think the buying habits/preferences are very different between those two groups. I think you will always see the younger generation leaning toward Rolex, AP, and Patek but I think there is a huge opportunity for independents of every price point as a sizeable portion of the younger generation prioritises individuality.

As a female collector, are you welcome in this market, or do you feel stereotypes are still strong?

Stereotypes are there for a reason, I have been very lucky in that from a collecting standpoint I was treated nicely most of the time. There are exceptions to everything, but I have made lifelong friends due to my interest in watches and I wouldn’t trade that for the few bad experiences. The past few years, there has been a positive change in moving the needle from both those in collecting and brands.  

Finally, do you think that brands are active enough in promoting their heritage department or are capitalising too much on new collections?

Having had the privilege of visiting the manufacture of brands throughout Switzerland as well as being an avid vintage collector, I am always amazed by how rich the heritage is. The F.P. Journe manufacture is truly one of a kind, not just for watch collectors but anybody with an interest in history or antiquities. The Vacheron Constantin archives are equivalent to a museum: what is shown to the public is genuinely just the tip of the iceberg. I think Vacheron is a brand that does a great mix of promoting their heritage department yet still developing modern iterations or completely new novelties.