Chantal Thomass: Irreverence enters the legend
Last May 6, an exceptional sale of Chantal Thomass' personal collection took place. Supported and encouraged by her friend Didier Ludot, the Millon auction house was entrusted with the sale.
Creating the sale of a life of fashion
Didier Ludot and Chantal Thomass have been fashion friends for many years. When she whispered to him of the existence of a secret location in the heart of Paris where 40-years of Haute-Couture career could be found, Didier Ludot was stunned. On the spot, she showed him the almost 700-piece collection. Arranged on hangers, protected from the light by covers and stored in controlled humidity at 15°, he could not help but encourage Chantal Thomass to reveal this collection of clothes, lingerie and fashion accessories to the world. Her creations were already sold out from her beginnings at Ter and Bantine and it is even more so today; in fact we can easily say that she is the icon of the liberated, responsible woman lost from view since early 2000.
A Millon sale under the confident gaze of Chantal Thomass
Célia Ducocq, sales expert for Millon, recalls that Chantal Thomass watched and had an opinion on the entire organisation of the sale, from the poster to the photos of the pieces to the set-up of the exhibition. The designer is a strong-willed woman who appreciates controlling her image, undoubtedly the reason for which she wanted to make this sale during her lifetime. Her hairstyle and her lipstick are her trademarks, her image. She wanted to ensure the respect of her image, what she wants to express, what she represents and what she wishes to reveal.
Estimating the Haute-Couture masterpieces
Generally, brands like Dior, Chanel, Vuitton, the big labels, are ranked in the market. We observe the market and then from there, we can evaluate, explains Célia Lecocq. We must also follow trends, the perpetual movements of fashion. Monogrammed Dior pieces were not worth € 10 three years ago. The brand then relaunched the logo and monogram for the accessories and clothing ranges. The brand's new strategy changed the market and sales and the objects, which were not worth much then, can today, reach 300€ or 400€.
Célia Lecocq adds “The fashion of the past is alive”. This is even truer since brands have developed heritage and heritage services, they keep objects. Like the big brands, Chantal Thomass, for her part, created her own heritage department. She has kept 40 years of career and creations "to remember". She started this initiative at the end of Ter et Bantine where she realised that there was not much left of her creations.
What is Chantal Thomass seeking through this sale?
Chantal Thomass is little known by younger generations. Those who know the brand are buyers of lingerie. Tell a group of young women that Chantal Thomass is an Haute-Couture fashion designer and few are aware. She seeks to introduce an era of fashion, reveal to new generations her first creations, her extravagance. Chantal Thomass is not just lingerie, she is much more.
The value of the Chantal Thomass collection
The designer is one of those exceptional brands, where there is no real ranking. It's much more complicated than a Dior or Vuitton bag. Millon respected Chantal Thomass' desire that the sale be accessible to all, to all budgets. Her wish was respected and verified during the sale.
And what now ?
Now the Chantal Thomass pieces have real value. 5.200€ for a « Parasol » basque, whereas the feather cote worn by Isabelle Adjani was sold for 2.470€. Most of the lots were sold beyond their estimated price. The prices varied between 180€ and 980€.
Undoubtedly, the buyers came to acquire part of the history of Haute-Couture and the first designer to show women in underwear. There is a strong likelihood that clothes from this sale will appear in future sales.